'I tried Brooklyn Beckham's restaurant and there was one obvious thing missing'

25 January 2024 , 18:05

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The Mirror's Polly Hudson tried Brooklyn's pop-up restaurant (Image: PHILIP COBURN)

Sometimes life takes you in unexpected directions, and today you find me about to eat Brooklyn Beckham’s nan’s sandwich.

With her blessing, I hasten to add. Neither Brooklyn Beckham nor his nan are here, but some of the food he’s offering in the pop-up restaurant he’s launched via Uber Eats Hosts is. It’s easy to have a pop at Brookers, fresh prince of the Nepo Babies, infamous for releasing a photography book of blurry pictures, and online videos where he attempts challenging culinary feats like making a cheese toastie.

But when you consider that he could be sitting on his bum doing absolutely nothing, or a full-time messy party boy - well, he’s not actually doing any harm is he? That said, this latest foray into food is probably not going to gain him many new admirers.

The Mirror's Polly Hudson tried Brooklyn Beckham's pop-up (PHILIP COBURN)

This is his restaurant, but he won’t be anywhere near it – or even, apparently, in the same country - and he won’t be doing any of the… you know… cooking.

Admittedly, it’s not like Gordon Ramsay is slaving over the stoves in every one of his restaurant kitchens simultaneously, but he probably did pop into his first one ever once or twice. And this is a pop-up, only lasting ten hours.

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Brooklyn's nanny Peggy taught him how to make the sandwich (PHILIP COBURN)

The five dishes on his menu are Iberico pork and Atlantic prawn dumplings (£10), Buffalo Cauliflower with Brooklyn’s homemade (ahem) ‘secret’ hot sauce (£10), Charcoal barbecued corn-fed tikka chicken (£15), 12-hour slow cooked Wagyu Bolognese (£15) and Nanny Peggy’s English Breakfast Sandwich (£10).

As the chef explains, “My Nanny Peggy taught me how to make her English Breakfast sandwich when I was 5, and it’s been my favourite ever since. I’ve always been into trying different foods, cuisines, and cultures, but that was one of my earliest memories of loving cooking.

It wasn't anything special (PHILIP COBURN)

"Spending time in the kitchen is definitely something me and my dad bond over… even though I think I make my English Breakfast sandwich better, he does make a pretty good one!”

Of the three dishes I’m trying, the sandwich is the most underwhelming. Limp toast, pale bacon, fried egg, sausage, ketchup - if you got it in your local greasy spoon cafe you’d think it was… fine? The cauliflower in batter is… ok? The secret hot sauce is… hot-ish? The Wagyu Bolognese is nice, in that way spag bol always is, but pretty unremarkable.

Overall, none of it’s a disaster. None of it’s that great either though. Brooklyn, don’t give up the day j… oh never mind. Brooklyn’s five dishes are available only in London today and tomorrow between 5pm and 10pm.

Polly Hudson