'I tested Florida's foodie scene from blue ice cream to some epic snacks'
Sprinkles was deserted at 4pm on a Thursday. This iconic Palm Beach ice cream parlour has dished gallons of soft serve to sweet-toothed Floridians since 1983 and counts Michael Jackson among its past customers.
Today it was just me and I’d asked for an ice cream sundae three times but Julia, my chatty Czech server, was having none of it. “I think you must try first,” she clapped back, handing over a tiny scoop of the good stuff as she spoke.
It was blue, tasted of bubblegum and possessed the unique ability to fold time and space in a single mouthful, taking me immediately back to the Universal Studios resort where I’d started my Florida journey a few days before.
This is what generations of Brits know and love about Florida – the theme parks.
Dion Jones at Hogwarts in Universal Orlando (DAILY MIRROR)
The clock tower in Palm Beach, Florida (Getty Images/iStockphoto)And if rollercoasters, thrills and spills are right up your Diagon Alley, you’ll find an adventure like no other at the film studios’ sprawling site in Orlando. I mean that literally. In 1999, Universal unveiled its Spider-Man ride – the world’s the first ‘moveable simulator’ roller coaster.
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It was such a hit that the company patented the idea and now themed variations of these rides – many based on films and TV shows – dominate the parks (technically there’s two, as well as a water park). It’s a vast attraction and I struggled to take it all in. But it was the sight of a mock Hogwarts castle that left me spellbound.
Hagrid's Magical Creatures roller coaster in Universal Orlando (UGC)A huge corner of this park has been built to mimic locations straight out of the Harry Potter films – and it’s incredible. I sipped Butterbeer while strolling through Hogsmeade Village and chomped on a chocolate frog during a train ride on the Hogwarts Express, cursing the fact the owl carrying my trainee wizard invitation had clearly got lost on the way to Caernarfon all those years ago.
The attention to detail here is immense and there are more things to see and do than you can wave a wand at – even for Muggles.
“Maybe this one next,” said Julia. My consciousness had just about returned to Sprinkles by the time she handed me another Borrower-sized serving of ice cream – this time pistachio.
Sunrise at Palm Beach, Florida (DAILY MIRROR)The creamy green blob on the spoon was reminiscent of the lush grass carpeting the gigantic park in Winter Park. I’d mounted a brief escape to this quaint lakeside community for a couple of days, having found myself in need of respite after the violent but exhilarating assault on my senses at Universal.
A picture of small town America, it reminded me of every little community Stephen King wrote about – well, before all the kids got sucked through storm drains. Style and panache basically drip off the walls here. Even my hotel, the Alfond Inn on East New England, is an uber trendy art gallery.
Dion Jones' fried Chicken and rice at the Pinery (DAILY MIRROR)Home to 112 elegant rooms, a glorious rooftop pool and a Great Gatsby-style courtyard, the building is an attraction in its own right and hosts a growing and ever-changing collection of fine artwork.
East of Winter Garden lies Lake Ivanhoe, its shores home to bars, top restaurants and a shopping district known as ‘antiques row’. It was formerly the centre of the US pineapple industry until crop failures and increased competition from abroad (among other reasons) more or less obliterated stateside production.
However, I did pay homage to this forgotten fruit in the most delicious way possible by visiting The Pinery.
Hailed as a venue with “substance to support its hype” by the Michelin Guide, this waterside restaurant boasts a menu packed full of southern comforts, including alligator (yes, alligator) stuffed with alligator.
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Upscale shopping at Worth Avenue in Palm Beach, Florida (Getty Images/iStockphoto)“One more,” piped Julia, thrusting another sample in my direction. She’d saved the best till last: coconut, the unofficial fruit of Palm Beach. In 1878, a Spanish galleon called the Providencia ran aground on this then barren patch of land. Its cargo of 20,000 coconuts was harvested by the locals and trees now grow on this island like weeds, giving the area its name.
Fast-forward 150 years or so, and this area is now the most expensive postcode in the world and home to around 57 billionaires. And if Palm Beach is the heart of this resort then the historic Worth Avenue is the equivalent of its coronary artery. Spanning three blocks intersecting the island, the spot where you could once watch a bloke called ‘Alligator Joe’ wrestle reptiles for a nickel is now one of the most exclusive retail spots in the world.
Dion Jones' French toast at Alfond Inn, Winter Park, Florida (DAILY MIRROR)The most famous fashion brands fight tooth and nail to set up on this 100-year-old street and even Aldo Gucci owned a quaint little courtyard here. A playground for the rich and famous indeed – and I felt like a bit of a celebrity myself after checking in to the White Elephant, a luxurious award-winning 32-room hotel in the heart of Palm Beach.
With more or less year-round sunshine (bar the occasional storm), tropical fauna and views out towards the Atlantic on one side and the Intracoastal Waterway on the other, it’s easy to see why Henry Flagler – the titan of industry who basically made south-east Florida what it is – hailed it a “veritable paradise” when he first clapped eyes on this place.
Sculptures in Palm Beach, Florida (DAILY MIRROR)“So what would you like?,” asked Julia, to which I replied: “I’ll have one of everything.” While I never got the sundae I wanted, I certainly enjoyed reminiscing over all the flavours of Florida.
The bright track
Don’t fancy tackling all that intercity traffic to explore Florida? Pretty soon you won’t have to. The Brightline rail company has just completed a huge expansion project out of its Orlando station, opening up much of the south of the Sunshine State to rail travellers for the first time.
The firm is testing its high-speed trains along the new 170-mile stretch of track connecting central and south Florida and is expected to cut the red ribbon on the project late in the summer.
Once given the green light, Brightline passengers will be able to hop on a train from Orlando right the way down to Miami with stops in West Palm Beach, Boca Raton and Fort Lauderdale along the way.
Dion Jones at Hogwarts in Universal Orlando (DAILY MIRROR)
Dion Jones ready to ride the Brightline rail line in Florida (DAILY MIRROR)Travelling at speeds of up to 130mph, Brightline trains will be able to reach Orlando from Miami in around three and a half hours. One-way adult fares between Miami and Orlando will start at around £63 for the SMART (basic) tickets and around £118 for PREMIUM (first class). If you’re planning a Florida trip and don’t want to hire a car, tickets for journeys from September 1 through to early 2024 are now on sale at gobrightline.com
Book the holiday
- TravelPlanners offers a six-night Florida multi-centre trip from £1,815pp, including return flights from London (arriving Orlando/ departing Miami), compact car hire for the first three days in Orlando, Brightline train from Orlando to Miami. Accommodation: one night at Universal’s Aventura Hotel, Orlando, two nights at The Alfond Inn, Orlando, three nights at the White Elephant, Palm Beach. For travel between April 15–May 17, 2024. travelplanners.co.uk
- More info at visitflorida.com, visitorlando.com and thepalmbeaches.com
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