'I went to Europe's jungle-covered island less than 4 hours from the UK'
Lush green peaks and valleys fold around us like a pleated skirt, with banana plantations, vineyards and villages terraced into the steep slopes. A sprawling landscape of white and pastel homes spills down from the misty hilltops to the sea...
A jungle-covered island on the other side of the world? Nope, it’s Madeira.
And with flights to its capital Funchal under four hours from the UK you can feel a tad less guilty about your carbon footprint than going long haul.
Which is fitting, because just a few months ago Madeira was awarded Silver certification as a sustainable tourism destination by EarthCheck, the world’s leading certification entity for tourism.
There are plenty of hints as to why throughout my visit. My room at Quinta da Serra – a 40-minute drive northwest from the airport – has small touches such as a bin with slots for recycling, and the mini bar is switched off when not in use. Breakfast is a feast of locally sourced, organic foods.
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The mist sweeps across the hilltops on Madeira (DAILY MIRROR)Fresh, local produce is a delicious theme throughout our trip, beginning with a visit to Terra Bona biohotel and vineyard – hidden from the roadside due to clever use of those terraced hills.
We’re greeted warmly by owners Marco and Maria-Joao, who show us around their vineyards and charming, recently completed villas – each of which sits on a different level to ensure privacy.
The interiors have been tastefully decorated with features including sustainable cork floors, paintings of the island from a local artist. There are even paints available for inspired guests.
Other thoughtful touches include walking sticks for those who fancy hiking Madeira’s levadas – trails alongside irrigation channels – and board games (you don’t need a TV with these views).
As well as native plants and trees, there’s a chef’s garden full of herbs, used alongside goodies from local producers to create seasonal, surprise meals for guests.
We enjoy a showcase of Madeiran produce including cheeses, Maria-Joao’s fish gratinee, and dessert of strawberries and passion fruits plus treats by Madeiran artisan chocolatier UauCacau (tip – grab some at the airport).
And, of course, we sample Terra Bona’s three white wines, which in their first year alone (2017) won bronze medals. Later in the year, Terra Bona will be collaborating with UauCacau as well as an ice-cream maker to make further use of their grapes, so watch this space.
Bellies full, the following day it is time to feast our eyes instead as we head out on a jeep adventure across the island.
Guide Chris keeps us entertained and informed throughout with snippets about the flora, fauna and geology, as well as the history and culture – including the fact that Madeira has a type of banana that’s too small to be accepted by the EU. “Madeira has a complex,” he jokes.
A delicious dish of Socalco Pork (DAILY MIRROR)
Carrie tried out the Akua Shrimpton dog (DAILY MIRROR)A more impressive fact perhaps is that in the first half of 2022, 33% of Madeira’s electricity came from renewable sources, and it hopes to boost that considerably by 2030.
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Fittingly, one of our stops is to Fanal, a mystical “energy forest” made up of some of the oldest laurel trees on the island, up to 4,000 years old.
It is steeped in an eerie mist when we arrive, living up to its reputation. We’re encouraged to hug the trees (no, really) to absorb their energy.
It’s no surprise to learn that Star Wars: The Mandalorian was filmed here, as well as at the lava pool and volcanic black-sand beach of Seixal – another stop on our trip.
True Spirit jeep tours avoid the most touristy spots, instead letting guests take in the nature, heritage and gastronomy of the island while helping locals situated more off the beaten track.
For us, this includes a lunch stop in the woodlands of Chao da Ribeira, where Chef Sergio welcomes us with an aperitif before treating us to tender grilled beef on laurel branch skewers.
Then it is on to Sao Vicente to visit an organic honey producer, where we sample another of the island’s traditional drinks, poncha – a heady mix of rum, honey, lemon juice and sugar. Just as well I’m not driving...
Later that evening, we head to Quinta das Vinhas country hotel to hear about its biodynamic vineyards.
For many years it was leased to Madeira Wine Institute for an experimental vineyard, but since 2018 it has been managed by sisters Isabel and Catarina, who have converted production to organic.
Told this wouldn’t be possible, they persisted and achieved their goal thanks to discoveries such as being able to protect the grapes by spraying them with unpasteurised milk.
And this year they launched their first wine – Madeira’s first organic table wine.
Luckily for us, their Bago restaurant is open to guests and visitors alike. We’re offered a Madeira wine spritzer before enjoying local delights such as parrotfish.
Fish is the theme of the day again the following lunchtime, this time in innovative seafood restaurant AKUA in Funchal where we share a selection of starters including a charcuterie platter made with smoked fish, a shrimp “hotdog” in a doughnut-style bun, codfish tacos and grouper fish carpaccio... and of course some local wine.
Time to meet some slightly bigger fish with Lobosonda – a responsible whale and dolphin watching company that aims to share encounters with marine life while raising awareness for the protection of it.
“We want to set an example, not be part of the problem,” says guide Paula.
Speeding along on a rigid inflatable boat, the marine biologist points out different sea birds around us, including the Cory’s shearwater.
Soon enough, we’re heading towards a flock bobbing on the water, but something else seems to be bobbing around too... a pod of spotted dolphins!
Before long the playful creatures are swimming alongside our boat, trying to get a good look at us as we take a good look at them, with obligatory goofy grins all round. Spotting another boat heading our way, we speed up to give the dolphins space but these sea puppies just want to play and one starts leaping out of the water alongside us.
“He’s showing off!” says Paula, adding: “We want people to see how much there is worth saving in the ocean. We share the planet with amazing creatures and want to keep it that way.”
After a refresher at the final hotel of our trip – PortoBay Serra Golf – it’s our last supper in Madeira at Razao restaurant in the Socalco Nature Hotel, a zero-waste eaterie that works with the local community. That means no set menu and something different every time you eat here, depending on what is available and fresh.
We enjoy a five-course tasting menu of fish croquette, scallop carpaccio, snapper fish, pork fillet and a cheesecake with shavings of parmesan on top, finishing with a sweet Madeira wine.
Having achieved Silver certification for sustainable tourism – an 18-month process involving dozens of third parties – Madeira’s tourism chiefs hope to reach Gold in four years and, ultimately, Platinum certification over the next 15 years.
After a weekend of great food, drink and nature in a glorious setting, with sustainability at the heart of it all, the island certainly gets a gold star fromme.
Book the holiday
Get there: Flights to Funchal, Madeira, are available from Bristol, Birmingham, Edinburgh, Gatwick, Glasgow, Heathrow, Manchester, Newcastle and Stansted.
Book it: Rooms at the Quinta da Serra hotel near Camara de Lobos, start at £79 a night B&B. hotelquintadaserra.com. Rooms at the Porto Bay Serra Golf hotel in Santo da Serra start at £100 per night B&B. portobay.com.
More information: Head to visitmadeira.com.
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