04 September 2023 , 16:10
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An explosion of yellow, blue and black – the colours of the country’s flag – covers the Bahamian capital Nassau. Music fills my ears as throngs of people try to get a glimpse of the dancers and musicians taking part in the Junkanoo parade.
Incredibly, this is all happening at 2am and it seems that every single Bahamian (there are 399,314 of them) has come out to celebrate the country’s 50th year of independence. I feel totally at home in this theatre of pure joy.
But the golden anniversary carnival is only a fraction of what this beautiful archipelago country lying between Florida and Cuba has to offer.
My journey across paradise had begun in Great Exuma – the largest of the 365 Exuma islands within The Bahamas – a half-hour flight from the international airport near Nassau.
I’m staying at Sandals’ Emerald Bay resort in a room that offers a spectacular view over the beach. I’ve even got a butler to call on via my own personal hotel phone.
Eight remote and beautiful but brutal jobs if you want to leave it all behind
It’s only the enticing ocean – with colours so vivid they can be seen from space – that persuades me to leave the resort.
An explosion of colour at Nassau's 50th Independence carnival (SUPPLIED)My group decides to hop on a boat chartered by Exuma Water Sports to experience this slice of heaven on earth first-hand. Within minutes, we are greeted by a mirage of colours that seem like a permanent Instagram filter.
Guide Justin points out one secluded beach in Moriah Cay as we move past. “We hosted a private party for Taylor Swift and her consort there,” he says.
We stop at a spectacular sand bar – a permanent stretch of sand sitting in the middle of the ocean. The shallow waves lap at my feet and I feel like I’m walking on water. A short ride further on and we’re taking a walk across a tiny island to discover a “secret” picture-postcard beach. Powdery white sand that seems never to have been touched by human feet greets me.
Stopping off at the spectacular sandbar (SUPPLIED)I take a dip in unimaginably warm water so clear I’m sure I can see every grain of sand at the bottom. All the swanning around in paradise works up an appetite so my group grab some food at the well known Chat ‘N’ Chill bar on Stocking Island, which can only be reached by boat and where barefoot locals, tourists and boaters are mingling, beers in hand. Shirts from past visitors hang from the ceiling of the laid-back, open-air bar.
I tuck into a mouth-wateringly fresh mahi-mahi (a local sea fish) and chips as people around me of many nationalities swap seafaring stories. Couples and families float in the shallows to my left, trying to spot the stingrays that swim into shore. We eventually drag ourselves away and return to Emerald Bay to tuck in at one of their 11 all-inclusive restaurants.
One of the many picture-postcard secret beaches on our boat tour (SUPPLIED)Bahamians pride themselves on being friendly and their People-to-People scheme demonstrates this well. It pairs eager tourists with volunteer locals who offer various experiences to give a true feel of The Bahamas.
I’m welcomed into the home of Katharina and Victor, where Victor is midway through preparing an authentic Bahamian meal for us. He then leads me round the back to a sea-view decking area where a table is laid out. It sits atop yet another unspoilt beach overlooking the azure waters that still don’t seem real. Music plays from a resident’s truck before neighbours arrive to welcome us to their island and offer titbits of what to do.
As the sun sets, plate-loads of fried conch shellfish (a Caribbean regional favourite) are brought out with rice and peas. I’m soon exchanging stories with our host Dorcas who has lived in the area all her life, while simultaneously having a staring contest with the cook’s younger children.
Our dinner setting for the People-to-People meal (SUPPLIED)
Enjoying a glass of wine at Royal Bahamian's Gordon's On The Pier (SUPPLIED)All I see are the smiling faces of Bahamians – overjoyed that others can experience heaven on earth with them. Feeling utterly relaxed from my time in Exuma, I am ready to experience the hustle and bustle of city life again.
Passenger spots graffiti begging Jet2 to stop playing 'moronic' Jess Glynne song
Nassau, on New Providence island, is a hive of activity and home to around 70% of The Bahamas’ population. Passengers from the cruise ships at the dock soak up the sun in seafront bar Señor Frog’s. Locals mill around, with the Straw Market being particularly popular. Imposing colonial buildings in bright colours are interspersed with coffee shops, restaurants and high-end stores such as Prada.
At a loss at where to start, we enlist the help of guide Tinka to take us on a history walking tour of the area – a journey through time to the early 18th century when Nassau was overrun with pirates such as ‘Calico Jack’ Rackham, Anne Bonny and Edward Teach, better known as ‘Blackbeard’.
We walk past the huge mansion where the abdicated King Edward VIII once lived as Governor of The Bahamas during the Second World War and my mouth waters as Tinka points out hugely popular tapas and cocktail bar The London down a back street.
She then takes us on a 15-minute boat ride out to the private Blue Lagoon Island, where tourists are soaking up the sun around the natural harbour as we step on to the jetty, then a sheltered beach with overhanging coconut trees for an authentic local picnic lunch.
The Blue Lagoon Island, which features on the Nassau tour (SUPPLIED)Later, I grab the opportunity to go for a snorkel in the north beach, and see a beautiful array of fish. Tour of the capital complete, we return to our new base, the Sandals Royal Bahamian resort, to relax. The all-inclusive hotel has its own private island which I’m eager to visit.
We set off from the pier – home to the idyllic Gordon’s on the Pier restaurant with its deliciously fresh seafood – to find a place with the feel of a luxe beach club with a swanky bar/restaurant overlooking the coast. Beside coconut trees guests sip margaritas and Bahamamamas (a favourite cocktail among locals) while sat on four-poster sun beds.
As I stroll through the lush gardens I come across the Red Lane Spa and the opportunity for an open-air massage proves too difficult to resist. I’m soon lying on a table in my own private hut overlooking the water. As my masseuse gets to work, I drift off to the sound of waves lapping against the rocks.
The Bahamas has 14 more inhabited islands that I haven’t even visited. And I’m soon dreaming about when I’ll next get the chance to visit this unforgettable country.
Getting ready for my private massage on Sandals Royal Bahamian's private island (SUPPLIED)Book the holiday
British Airways flies from Heathrow to Nassau, The Bahamas, from £711 return.
Virgin Atlantic flies from Heathrow to Nassau from £755 return.
Internal return flights between Nassau and Exuma are available with bahamasair from £191 and Western Air from £179.
Sandals Resorts offers a seven night twin-centre all-inclusive stay in The Bahamas from £3,299pp - four nights at Sandals Emerald Bay, Great Exuma, three nights at Sandals Royal Bahamian, Nassau. Includes flights from Heathrow, inter-island flights and transfers. Valid for travel on selected dates in May. sandals.co.uk.
Get more info at bahamas.com.