'Europe's oldest city is overlooked despite sunny weather and James Bond links'
There was an air of heady celebration as our chauffeured car, courtesy of Saga, drew up at Portsmouth International Port in good time to embark on our Islands of the Western Mediterranean voyage aboard the Spirit of Discovery.
We had arrived just after the Lord Mayor and Lady Mayoress of Portsmouth had cut the ribbon to declare the port’s new cruise terminal extension open.
And as passengers on the Saga ship we were among the first to experience the innovative sustainable terminal extension complete with sky garden, air-purifying green ‘living walls’ and an exclusive passenger lounge.
It’s testament to the soaring popularity of cruise holidays, as more Brits than ever are expected to take to the water in 2024. The multi-million-pound extension means the port is more than prepared, now able handle ships up to 984ft long, and this year expected to welcome more than 100 vessels, with a quarter of a million tourists forecast to use the cutting-edge terminal.
At just a shade over 774ft long, the 999-passenger Spirit of Discovery is a comfortably navigable size, so locating our cabin – one of 554 – was a breeze. Styled as an all-inclusive boutique hotel, our cabin certainly met the brief, in a contemporary design of gold, teal and beige, and came with mineral water, a basket of fruit and a kettle.
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The ship also stopped off in Corsica (DAILY MIRROR)Other ‘British’ touches included three-pin sockets, traditional afternoon tea offered daily and sterling as the onboard currency. Wi-fi, tips, meals including dining at the three speciality restaurants, soft and alcoholic drinks including premium spirits, 24-hour room service and some excursions, plus a chauffeured car to and from the port are all covered in the price. No wonder Saga cruises are such a hit with its loyal over-50s customers.
From our balcony (each cabin comes with a private balcony as standard) we waved farewell to Portsmouth as we sailed away on a wave of anticipation.
With three days at sea before reaching Cadiz – our first port of call – there was plenty of time to get our sea legs, explore our elegant surroundings and sample fine dining in two of the speciality restaurants.
The Club steakhouse delivered a mouthwatering aged Aberdeenshire sirloin steak, and in Coast to Coast I was in seafood heaven, from a baked diver scallop starter to the delectable main of lobster thermidor with Hollandaise sauce.
On the first formal night we put on our glad rags to mingle with other glammed-up guests at the Captain’s welcome cocktail party before heading into The Grand Dining Room where I did justice to the Executive Chef’s signature dish of pan-fried Dover sole and prawns with saffron butter blanc.
Cadiz was one of the gorgeous locations on the itinerary (Getty Images/iStockphoto)The evening ended on a high note in the Playhouse theatre with a splendid revue from the ship’s cast of some of the biggest musicals such as West Side Story and Les Miserables.
At breakfast we pored over the ship’s programme, delivered to our cabin daily. Packed with activities and events – quizzes, boardgames, darts, skittles, watercolour and craft classes, talks and ballroom dancing – there’s something for everyone.
In need of a little pampering, I booked an Elemis hot mineral body boost spa treatment. Cushioned in bed of sand-fine warm crystals, I soon drifted off as therapist Irene deftly worked her magic, soothing away aches and unknotting muscles.
Those three days seemed to fly by as suddenly we arrived at Cadiz port. Founded by the Phoenicians in 1104BC, this charming city is said to be Europe’s oldest, yet despite its rich history it is surprisingly overlooked.
As the mercury hit 33C, we admired its significant sights from the comfort of an air-conditioned coach, taking in the majestic gold-domed cathedral, the ruins of the world’s second largest Roman amphitheatre in the medieval Barrio del Populo quarter, and pretty La Caleta beach – Halle Berry famously emerged from the sea here in Bond movie Die Another Day.
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The Spirit of DiscoveryReturning to the ship we enjoyed an alfresco lunch of fish and chips in The Verandah before deciding to brave the heat and stroll back into town. We followed the city walls round to Genoves Park, a tranquil green oasis home to more than 100 tree species and some eye-catching towering topiary.
Next up on our island-hopping itinerary was Menorca, the second largest of the Balearics. After docking at the capital Mahon on the east coast, we joined a coach tour to the northeast coast, stopping to take in sea views over Arenal d’en Castell and Port d’Addaia, then heading on to the Fornells for a brief visit. The pretty fishing village is famed for its seafood restaurants, serving their version of the island’s signature dish – lobster stew.
Exquisite and eye-wateringly expensive, it is fit for a king – the Spanish royal family have been known to visit here.
Unfortunately none were offering tastings, but at our next stop, Binissues Manor House and farm in Ferreries, we enjoyed a demo of how Menorcan cheese is made, then not only got a chance to sample the end product but also the island’s national tipple, Pomada, a simple but refreshing cocktail of locally distilled gin and lemonade. And it’s all thanks to British sailors who introduced gin to Menorca in the 18th century. Cheers!
Our next port of call was Corsica, and after breakfast in our room we disembarked for a 75-minute coach trip from Ajaccio to the hilltop village of Cargese and UNESCO world heritage site Calanques de Piana.
Cargese, also known as The Greek Village, dates back to the 17th century when a group of 600 Greeks arrived, fleeing the Turkish invasion of their homeland.
Cargese was a must-visit (Getty Images/iStockphoto)In the centre of the village stands Corsica’s only Greek Orthodox Church and facing it is the Roman Catholic Church. Both are worth visiting, the former for the four icons brought by the Greek colonists and the latter for its trompe-l’oeil paintings.
Then it was on to the Calanques – the highlight of the tour – where the spectacular red-ochre granite cliffs plunging over 900ft into the sea did not disappoint. Each time the coach rounded a bend on the winding road, the dramatic scenery took our breath away.
Rocks sculpted over time by the elements have formed fascinating formations; look out for La Tete de Chien which resembles a dog’s head.
Back on board we tucked into an excellent three-course dinner at Asian speciality restaurant East to West, rounding off the evening in the Playhouse where Britain’s Got Talent star Tom Ball gave a pitch-perfect performance.
We woke up to wind and rain the next day as we arrived in Sardinia, berthing at Olbia, the first of two stops at Italy’s second largest island.
Undeterred by the grey skies, we set off by coach to the Gallura region, home to cork oak forests and vineyards. A visit to a cork factory in the town of Calangianus turned out to be, erm, a corker, as we learnt about the versatility of this eco-friendly material.
From tiles to footwear, wallets and handbags, the list of its uses is endless. And on a stroll round Tempio Pausania, Gallura’s capital, we passed boutiques displaying exquisite designerwear made from cork.
The tour continued along a tortuous winding mountain road through Moon Valley, so called because of its lunar-like landscape of granite boulders eroded by the winds, which made it a popular location for the spaghetti westerns of the 1960s.
Our final port of call, for us, was Cagliari, Sardinia’s vibrant capital in the south of the island. But before saying our arrivedercis, we took a morning tour up to the city’s medieval Castello quarter, dominated by the magnificent Cagliari Cathedral and the splendid 13th century twin watchtowers.
As we headed towards the gangway, suitcases in tow, to disembark for our taxi to the airport, one of the crew cried out “we’ll miss you”. We would certainly miss them, having helped make our first Saga cruise such an enjoyable experience. Roll on the next one!
Book the holiday
- Saga’s 22-night Adriatic at Easter round-trip cruise departs from Portsmouth on March 17. Spirit of Discovery will call at Gibraltar; Salerno, Italy; Dubrovnik and Split, Croatia; Trieste (for Venice); Koper, Slovenia; Zadar, Croatia; Cagliari, Sardinia; and Lisbon, Portugal. From £5,187pp including optional travel insurance. saga.co.uk/cruises
- More info at visitgibraltar.gi italia.it/en croatia.hr/en-gb slovenia.info/en visitportugal.com/en
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