'I pitted Warburtons crumpets against Waitrose - one held butter perfectly'

12 January 2023 , 12:34

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'I pitted Warburtons crumpets against Waitrose - one held butter perfectly'

I've always found a perfectly toasted, generously buttered crumpet to be one of the very best comfort foods, especially on dreary January days. For me, you just can't beat Warburtons' offering. When toasted correctly, the crisp outer texture balances out the feathery fluffiness inside - with every bubbly crevice oozing with melted butter.

When I learned Waitrose was removing all Warburtons products from its shelves, claiming that the 'performance' of its baked goods 'didn't meet expectations', I was a little taken aback. The supermarket's decision followed reports that crumpet sales at Waitrose have dropped by 15% over the last year, amid sales increases of 10% in the wider crumpet market.

Waitrose recently removed all Warburtons products from its shelves (Julia Banim)

I wanted to test a Waitrose crumpet against a Warburtons' crumpet (Julia Banim)

In response to Waitrose's decision, Warburtons hit back, arguing that 'quality is paramount' to the brand. They added: "We know that consumers recognise the quality, and value of our products and that is why we are the number one bakery brand in the UK."

I must say, I agree. I've long been a fan of Warburtons, and not just because I grew up not far from the Bolton-based headquarters. The company's crumpets, lauded as the UK's number one, have always felt like the benchmark to meet - and few have succeeded.

After Waitrose delivered a savage blow to Warburtons, I simply had to put the brand's crumpets head to head in order to decipher a real winner. I've never tried anything from Waitrose's baked goods selection, so was curious to see how its crumpets measured up to Warburtons' classic offering.

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Warburtons pride themselves on making the 'UK's number one crumpet' (Julia Banim)

The crust of the Warburtons' crumpet crisped up nicely (Julia Banim)

Warburtons Crumpets - pack of six for 85p at Sainsbury's - 10/10

As ever with Warburtons, the crust of the crumpet crisped up nicely, offering a satisfying, distinctive crunch. The innards were blissfully airy, with a moreish spongy texture that didn't feel too doughy or overly yeasty. Best of all, the soft, porous craters pooled with butter, which trickled right the way through to the firm base. Heaven.

Warburtons' crumpets don't have a particularly strong flavour, but I personally wouldn't add a thing. The light bready notes are incredibly comforting and make for a solid base for pretty much any topping under the sun. A strong 10/10 from me.

Waitrose crumpets have received rave reviews online (Julia Banim)

Waitrose Sourdough Crumpets - pack of six for £1.55 at Waitrose - 7/10

These crumpets have received rave reviews on the Waitrose website, with shoppers praising their freshness and firmness. I was excited to try one for myself.

After toasting a crumpet for the recommended two minutes, plus a little extra, I was struck by the fact that, although the crumpet was lovely and warm, it didn't have the signature crunch on top that for me really makes or breaks the crumpet eating experience.

As a sourdough crumpet, the inside was also much denser than the Warburtons' offering. This feature, paired with the smaller craters, meant the melted butter wasn't dispersed around the honeycomb structure quite so evenly. For the most part, the butter remained glistening on top.

This aside, I was struck by the interesting and quite pleasant sourdough taste which I feel would have matched wonderfully with a sharp raspberry jam.

Overall, I'd have to say that the Warburtons crumpet was by far the champion here, with every aspect tailor-made for a spirit-lifting crumpet experience.

From the fresh taste to the incomparable mingling of textures, Warburtons truly is the King of Crumpets, and I will be dismayed if there ever comes a day when I can't pick up a packet at my local supermarket.

The Waitrose crumpet was certainly tasty, and I would try it again, but it just didn't have the sort of comforting mouthfeel I've come to expect from a crumpet. It also had a slightly powdery baking soda aftertaste that wouldn't be everybody's cup of tea.

Julia Banim