28 June 2023 , 10:06
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Black and afro-textured hair has long been under-catered for by hair salons, and people have been calling on the beauty industry to be more inclusive for decades.
The Black Lives Matter movement in 2020 brought the disparity and lack of education to the forefront, and those with curly, coiled and afro-textured hair are finally being recognised.
With the National Occupation for Hairdressing (NOS) making it mandatory for all hairstylists to be trained in working with textured hair, the future of high-street salons is looking much more diverse.
Hairdresser and Keratin specialist, Sam Holland, is paving the way for stylists and parlours across the nation, after opening the UK's first, and multi-award-winning, Keratin-only hair salon.
Sam Holland is an expert in Keratin treatments and opened Keratin One in 2020 (Sam Holland)
Keratin is aimed at clients with frizzy and textured hair that want a smoother look (Sam Holland)Keratin One exclusively offers Keratin treatment, which works to smooth the hair's cuticle and tame frizzy hair. It's far less harsh than chemical relaxants and is ideal for those with textured hair who desire a shinier look.
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Sam was inspired to set up the salon after experiencing her own prejudices in the hairdressing seat and hearing from clients who have struggled to find a safe and comfortable space.
"My hair is naturally afro-textured and I always struggled with getting it cut and treated. I wanted to open a Keratin-only salon because it's never been done before," Sam, 33, told the Mirror.
"Like many of my clients, I've been turned down by hairdressers who have said, 'We don't cater for your hair type', or 'I've not got time to do it'. It makes you feel so uncomfortable."
The Manchester salon is the first of its kind to exclusively offer Keratin treatments in the UK (Sam Holland)The mum-of-three first trained in hairdressing at the age of 18, and opened Keratin One in Manchester during the pandemic in July 2020.
"I am self-taught and my staff have learnt all of my knowledge and advice to be able to get the best results out of any hair type," Sam explained.
"A lot of people get confused and think Keratin is a straightening treatment - it's not. It removes up to 95 percent of frizz, reduces the natural volume of the hair and reduces the drying time by 70 percent.
"We have put a lot into education and speak to the Keratin pharmacists on a regular basis to stay up-to-date with the science behind it. We are experts in our field."
One of Sam's clients with afro-textured hair before her Keratin treatment (Sam Holland)
The customer was left with shiny and smooth hair that's much easier to manage (Sam Holland)Sam, who has over 10 years' experience using Keratin treatments, is usually fully-booked and her two stylists are also high in demand.
Their clients travel as far as Scotland, Spain, France, Germany and Ireland to secure an appointment with her specialist team in Manchester.
"It's a big 'pinch me' moment that they've seen the work we do and are prepared to travel that far," Sam explained.
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"I have so many clients who have come from other salons that offer Keratin treatment as an add-on service, and it's never as good.
"Ladies who are mixed race or of colour will often say, 'Wow, my hair actually moves'.
"People are absolutely amazed at the results. They can't believe how straight or smooth we've got their hair.
Regular clients will travel as far as Germany and Spain for Sam's expertise (Sam Holland)
She has frosted her salon windows so Muslim women feel more comfortable (Sam Holland)"Overall, it makes the hair healthier, improves the condition and encourages growth. It makes men and women's hair a lot easier to manage."
Sam is passionate about offering her services out to everybody, and has refurbished her salon to cater to Muslim clients too.
"Two years ago, we frosted our windows. Before that, we had a screen to protect ladies who wore hijabs from men and the outside. It's been a massive hit," she said.
"These ladies feel comfortable knowing that nobody is going to walk in. Not only are the windows frosted, but as soon as we have a lady with a hijab in, we lock the front door.
Sam is passionate about other salons following suit and finding ways to be 100 percent inclusive (Sam Holland)"We have a wide variety of people coming to us because we're so open and non-judgemental. We are 100 percent inclusive in every aspect."
Sam always wanted to learn how to treat afro-textured hair, but was only taught how to work with Caucasian hair in college.
Speaking about the changes in the industry, she said: "It's very important for hairdressers to be able to style all types of hair. Salons should be inclusive, no matter the client's religion, gender or hair type.
"You can't just go into hairdressing wanting to do Caucasian hair. Everybody should feel included."
Sam is hoping to open another Keratin-only salon in London in the future. For now, you can book an appointment at her Manchester site on her website.
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