01 November 2023 , 11:19
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California cool, a total foodie and unashamedly itself, San Francisco is like the slightly alternative cousin of other more shouty American cities. You know, the laid-back relative that turns up late, sticks on some jazz and asks if you’ve tried the latest Korean street food trend.
Classic America meets Silicon Valley tech to bring an eclectic explosion in this city-of-hills that boasts a proud history but has swagger. The place where the Chinese Fortune Cookie was invented, home to the beloved Giants baseball team and the “movie star status” Golden Gate Bridge, where even the famous fog has a name (Karl, if you’re asking).
You can’t fanfare one of the most notorious prisons in the world, the formidable Alcatraz “Rock” that housed infamous gangsters such as Al Capone and Machine Gun Kelly, and not have edge. Fresh off my Norse Atlantic flight, a great low-cost long-haul option, I checked in to the newly opened LUMA Hotel in the city’s up-and-coming Mission Bay area.
Sara had a quick whizz around the famously hilly city (DAILY MIRROR)My spacious, modern room with a panoramic view was so hi-tech it took me 20 minutes to locate the light switch. A call to room service alerted me that Lumie, a polite little waiter-bot, could whizz coffee straight to my door. Lumie sadly did not bring cocktails, but the hotel’s “hottest rooftop bar” Cavaña was only an lift ride away.
An aspirational part of town, the new waterfront neighbourhood, Mission Rock, with luxury apartments, offices, shops and planned lush green park, is just across the street. So it felt like being transported back in time when I moved to the central 120-year-old The Westin St Francis half-way through my stay – a hotel rooted in tradition that has welcomed celebrities and world leaders… and me.
You can get paid £2,000 to go on holiday and post about it on social media
The stunning flower-filled lobby is Insta-worthy, while sweeping staircases lead to elegant rooms overlooking the iconic Union Square and a tempting metropolis of stores like Macy’s and Bloomingdale’s. Whether you’re a fan of chic, minimalist hotels, with robots and a hip cafe, or the old-school, heavily curtained style with a timeless bar and slap-up buffet breakfast, you can find your vibe in San Fran.
The city that eats If you’re not essentially moving from one meal to the next, are you even on holiday? For foodies, San Francisco has got you covered, and I started as I meant to go on with an epic walking food tour.
It began with an aubergine focaccia from Mario’s Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe – eaten on the pavement opposite the church where Marilyn Monroe married Joe DiMaggio in 1954 for extra cultural points.
There were fish tacos from Taqueria El Farolito, a stew at Betty Lou’s Seafood & Grill and dim sum to die for in Chinatown. A fortune cookie told me to live my best life (tick!) and I think there may have also been a pastry. Grazing while strolling is multitasking at its finest.
The intrepid reporter got to visit the famous bridge (Getty Images/500px)The next day I headed to the Ferry Building, which has stood as the waterfront gateway to the city since 1898 when the first ferry docked at its pier. Now host to a world-class marketplace, it’s packed with diverse merchants and local artisans offering delis and lifestyle shops that scream: “Things you don’t need but absolutely must have immediately”.
I munched practically a whole loaf of olive bread, homemade Jamaican patties and gourmet chocolates and have noregrets. Day three, a slight belt loosening, and I took on brunch at Sears Fine Food, famous for its 18 Swedish pancakes, which have been on the menu since its opening 85 years ago.
Fortunately I’d recovered in time for dinner at John’s Grill, which features in the classic novel The Maltese Falcon and boasts Hollywood patrons including Marlon Brando to Keanu Reeves. A classic prawn cocktail followed by lobster ravioli was mouth-watering.
All I can say is, thank goodness for the hills. At some point in time, the geographical gods must have looked to the future and at the menu for Boudin Bakery (clam chowder served in a bread bowl? Yes please) and designed the hilliest city in the world to help residents battle those carbs.
“Thou shalt eat sourdough but thou shalt do cardio on the walk home.”
Sadly, you cannot outwalk your fork. You could say that I left my heart in San Francisco, but gained five pounds… (and it was totally worth it).
Quirky things to do in Brighton from a jail-themed bar to UV-lit indoor games
Banged up
You can’t help but shudder as the ferry docks at Alcatraz Island, where the former fort, military prison and maximum-security penitentiary looms in San Francisco Bay (nps.gov/alca/index.htm, tour and ferry from $45 at cityexperiences.com/san-francisco/city-cruises/alcatraz). But the creepy tour around dingy cells and harshly lit corridors was one of the highlights of the trip and an absolute must-see.
Alcatraz and its imposing prison known as The Rock is now an official National Park welcoming a never-ending conveyor belt of wide-eyed tourists. After opening in 1934, over 29 years it housed some of America’s most notorious criminals including Robert Franklin Stroud, The Birdman of Alcatraz.
I recommend the audio tour, which guides you through the eerie and crumbling building, with former prison guards and inmates describing their time at the jail with nerve-jangling anecdotes. Whether it was the tale of a disastrous escape attempt – “missing, presumed drowned” – or the detail that the inmates loved the food, “especially the noodles”, it was fascinating.
Like all good tours, it ended in the gift shop, but I was not expecting to find an elderly man cheerfully signing books – former inmate William G. Baker. One of the last Alcatraz jailbirds and promoting his prison memoir, Bill Baker had stolen a car aged 18 and after two escape attempts in other prisons, was sent to The Rock.
Good to see his stint inside is finally paying off…
We are Giants
I am here to tell you that it’s possible to go from“no idea about baseball” to branded baseball-capped, yelling, lunatic fan within a couple of hours. I’ve only ever seen baseball in the movies – it’s like rounders, right? No? Cricket?
A stadium tour of Oracle Park whetted the appetite – and would be a hit for any sports fan – as I saw everything from the changing rooms and the trophy cabinet to a couple of in-the-flesh players. Later, I grabbed an enormous slice of pizza (more food, phew) and watched my first ever baseball game: the San Francisco Giants versus the Seattle Mariners.
Do I know who won? Err… Did I understand the rules? Not entirely.
But the atmosphere, from the singing of The Star-Spangled Banner and jeering crowds to the big-screen antics and stomping feet made it a thoroughly American, out-of-the-park experience that hit a home run ( mlb.com/giants, tickets from $10).
Get over it
Cycling over the iconic Golden Gate Bridge, which stretches 1.7miles (and isn’t gold FYI) was the standout moment of the trip. Sailing past pedestrians under this staggering feat of engineering, blasted with the infamous mist and fog, you can’t help but take a deep breath in awe.
Grab a tour on a standard or electric bike with Unlimited Biking, with plenty of photo opportunities for that Golden Gate state of mind ( unlimitedbiking.com/san-francisco, $20 for two hours).
And don’t be scared of the incline– what goes up…
Ring that bell
For a heart-stopping adrenaline rush, jump on one of the city’s iconic cable cars, ( sfmta.com/getting-around/muni/cable-cars, single ticket $8). And hang on tight– once those drivers ring the bell, there’s no stopping them. Charm on wheels.
Book the holiday
Virgin Atlantic flies from Heathrow to San Francisco from £412 return. virginatlantic.com
Rooms at the LUMA Hotel in San Francisco start at around £203 a night room-only. lumahotels.com
Rooms at The Westin St Francis hotel in San Francisco start at around £175 a night room-only. westinstfrancis.com
You can also get more information at sftravel.com.